Napflion revisited

Well, I know I wrote about the fact that it is better to create new memories, but we couldn't help but revisit a place that featured large in the Mooney family travel annals, Napflion, Greece. We had really intended to continue on to another magical place from a previous visit, Monemvassia, but discretion is the better part of valor( isn't that a great expression? ) and we decided to forego the 6 hour drive there and back. But back to Napflion... On our first trip to Greece, we set off on the road from Athens for what should have been a 2 hour drive. However, much to our chagrin, EVERYONE else was also trying to leave Athens, as this was Greek Orthodox Easter weekend! Who knew? Not us. 

So we slogged along in the traffic,  finally reaching the lovely little town of Napflion in the late afternoon. 

We easily found our hotel quite close to the seafront. It was older and rather charming, with floor to ceiling windows and a balcony.

We took the kids to the nearby square to find some dinner and I know that we ordered a pizza, because I clearly remember that I looked around and noticed that we were the only ones eating it with our hands. Everyone else was cutting it with knife and fork. Funny what we remember...jim was so tired that he went back to the hotel. Suddenly a lot of really big firecrackers were being set off- right next to us! Ah, so this is how the Greeks celebrate Easter. Then a small procession formed, carrying a religious relic or statue of Jesus( my memory is a little fuzzy here) aloft. We went back to the room eventually and fell fast asleep, tired from jet lag . 

At midnight I was awakened by beautiful, harmonic singing. It was some of the sweetest music I had ever heard, and it was right under our balcony! I flung open the windows and stepped out onto the balcony to see what looked like half the town in the procession! I woke up Jim to listen, too. They had processed to every church in town, finally ending up right across from our hotel at the small church, where bells rang to celebrate the beginning of Easter. This memory still brings tears to my eyes as I can easily conjur up that magical feeling from that unexpected serendipity. 

The next day was Easter and I was told that most families just celebrated at home with a grilled leg of lamb. I saw them in the butcher shops, but it seemed a little impractical to try to cook one by the side of the road. I secretly wished for people, or a place to share an Easter feast. But we had a plan to set off in search of some ancient ruins. We got a bit lost however, and saw a house by the side of the road with a bunch of people outside so I had jim pull over to ask directions. They immediately insisted that we stay for grilled lamb and ( lots) of ouzo offered from a liter pop bottle. We even had egg fights with hard boiled red eggs, just like my family tradition. This was probably our most memorable Easter, and just one more travel serendipity. 

So you can imagine why we might want to return to Napflion.

Still the same view from the harbor, but just about everything else had changed. Where there were once small cafe tables where everyone drank Nescafé, there was now a huge parking lot. Further on there were still lovely places to sit and have a coffee, but they are now all upscale restaurants with glass fronts and comfortable furniture. No one was drinking Nescafé, rather ,fancy coffee drinks. And the food was tourist fare. Club sandwiches and hamburgers. I'm sorry to say we were foolish enough to order a hamburger here, and I am still trying to forget that lunch.

As previously shown, this was our lovely pansion, Dafne. Perfect in all ways, including breakfast.

This also came with Greek yogurt and fresh squeezed orange juice. I'm becoming addicted to that delicious eggy, sesame bread. And you seem to catch a whiff of this sweet cake baking all around town. 

Since the day was sunny and warm we decided to stay close to town rather than spending six hours in the car driving to Monemvassia. We're finally getting a little wiser in our old age. 

And really, that was another experience that was so special that it would be impossible to recreate- not that we were trying to, but we both thought it would be fun to go there again. On our first visit, we really didn't know what to expect, but had read that it was a unique place at the edge of the sea, across a causeway. We happened to be there on May 1 which was a special day in Greece. Similar to our May Day, it was a tradition to pick wildflowers ,which were woven into wreaths and placed on doors around town. Very charming. 

We wandered around amid fields of daisies and wild red poppies which I had never seen before. 

Then we had lunch overlooking the Adriatic in a gorgeous setting. In my inimitable fashion, I imagined staying overnight at the one hotel on the small island. Next thing I knew, Jim was checking to see if they had a room available, and viola, we ended up staying there! I would show you a photo of the place, but would not want you to have to see me with tightly permed hair. Not a good look...I have always associated poppies with that day. Sigh.

But back to the present...

Jim had seen a small beach near town while looking at the map, so we decided to try to find it. At first we thought about trying to walk there, then decided to drive. Glad we did, because where we ended up was quite far from town. But what a drive it was! I soon got over my disappointment about not going to Monemvassia when I saw the view spread before us.

I called this " mini Monemvassia". There was a bench conveniently placed overlooking the water, where I did a little sketch.

And this " the house of seven cats". They were all happily lounging in the sun, as cats are wont to do. 

How cute is that? 

I strolled across the parking area to read a small sign next to a little path. Something was 300 meters away, and we decided to find out what it was.

The path was so spectacular that we really didn't care if we found anything at the end! 

Various kinds of euphorbia lined the trail- some just like what grows in my backyard.

And lots of wildflowers- but no red poppies.

Then we came upon this! 

I  gently pushed the blue gate open and went down the path.

And there was the tiniest church I had ever seen, which you entered through this tiny door

We had to bend low to enter...

I believe it is customary to kiss the paintings, but I did not.

There were three tiny rooms, and chairs piled up, so people do attend services there. 

View from the sea

Heaven being at the waters' edge.

Then we traipsed back along the path feeling like we had found a real treasure.

After a few more beach vistas, we drove back through town in the other direction through several small towns , finally stopping at this place for a quintessential Greek lunch in the sunshine

Oh, and I forgot to mention that I found this along the little pathway..

I was planning to bring it home as a Greek souvenier, but it smelled a bit too much like, well, skunk. 

So I took a photo souvenier and left it behind. 

Back " home" to sit on our terrace in the sunshine. 

All in all a very good day.

As I write this, I am sitting in the sunshine still, though in a very different place. Big jets fly overhead every few minutes , since we are staying very near the Rome airport. Sometimes I can't remember where I am or where we're going...