A trip down memory lane

IWe had one more trip to the Chinese VISA office to take care of before we left town and we relied heavily on our gps to help us navigate the crazy streets of Rome. For some reason, the voice doesn't often work, but miraculously she talked us all the way into the city, turn by turn! We drove past the Vatican and Jim knew that I'd been hoping to catch a glimpse of the Pope. Amazingly, there he was, peering from a small window at the crowds below! Nah, not really, though I can imagine him doing such a thing...

Since parking is very difficult to find in Rome, I stayed with the car in a no parking zone, while Jim went to and fro with his application, and bringing flowers to the nice woman at the travel agency who had helped type up itineraries. I just prayed that I wouldn't be forced to move the car. Not that I can't drive a stick, but because I never want to drive in Rome! I don't think anyone in their right mind should. There, you've been warned.

Before I go on, I just have to mention our wonderful meal the previous evening. Jim had looked up a nearby restaurant  on yelp, but when we got there ( driving in Rome at night is even more terrifying) it was closed. So we tried to retrace our route, and came upon Zio Frankie's , which looked kind of non descript, but it was open. I didn't notice the Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence on the door until we left, but we have had some wonderful experiences with places that earn this rating- both hotels and restaurants. I'll just say that eating there was an experience. It was a true slice of Italian life, and I'd bet that we were the only non Italians in the place, which is just how we like it. 

We watched ( since we had no food ourselves for 45 minutes) as people consumed impressive quantities of food. One trim couple about our age polished off two plates of mussels, each had a serving of seafood risotto, then they each had a plate of gamberetti( prawns) with pasta! Once they started eating, they barely stopped to exchange one word. After that,the husband ordered dessert.

jim said they were probably walking 10 miles home. Everyone was eating like this in courses, which is how they expect you to eat, and consuming vast amounts of food, in our eyes. 

We ordered a pizza and pasta, which seemed more than enough, but it was good entertainment to watch what everyone was ordering. We left at 9:30, and people were just arriving. Sorry, no photos.

Ok, back on the road now, with a vague hope that all was taken care of in the VISA department. 

We were heading to Cortona, a randomly chosen destination in Tuscany where we had two nights reserved at a Agriturismo place nearby. As we got near lunchtime and were seeing signs for Orvieto, I suggested that we stop there for lunch. This place held lots of memories for us, too, as that was where we stayed for a month 10 years ago after Jim retired. He decided that he wanted to go someplace to study Italian, and generally lead the Italian lifestyle for a while. But mostly, he just wanted a true break from his work life. After much research and discussion, we finally settled on a program in Orvieto, and rented part of a restored farmhouse from one of the directors of the school. I won't go into the ups and down of that time, because that would require 3 blog posts, with no photos. Generally, though, we had a wonderful time and have good memories of our stay - except for the scorpions....

So it seemed fitting that we pop off the road for a bit to travel back in time.

Doesn't he pose well? He seems to be reliving good memories. We found a nice little trattoria and had a wonderful lunch while sitting in the sunshine. Generally during the lunch hours, the town is fairly deserted and quiet. Not today! There were hoards of teenage school kids groping through town on field trips, so when they passed through, it was sort of like eating lunch in the middle of a schoolyard. 

I had pasta with black truffles- delicious! 

Jim had the porchetta which seemed to be on every menu. The one he makes is definitely better.

But you just can't beat a fresh tomato salad! 

We browsed through the shops a bit and I liked these handpainted pottery vases. Could someone get busy and make some of these? Anyone. Robin? 

And then we went to our favorite gelato place, which has probably changed hands 3 times, but it was still good

What groups of tourists really come to Orvieto for is to stop briefly to see the impressively beautiful Duomo.

We both said, "let's never go on a tour that requires us to wear yellow bandanas- or hats!"

The inside is not as magnificent but it is the exterior that is really incredible. 

I can still remember the thrill ( after I got past abject terror) of driving into town through narrow winding streets, seeing a glimpse of the Duomo.It never got old. 

I think that is enough about our day. We'll catch up later in Cortona.