Cortona

I have to say we take a lot for granted, living in the US. Nearly everyday for three months we have been asked "where you from?". " America" is our usual answer, which elicits all kinds of positive comments, from "very great country" to" Obama!" We smile and shake our heads yes, but sometimes we are thinking,"Yes, it is a good country, however..." One Greek shopkeeper who had pegged Jim as a " handsome Greek man" made the point that America is a great friend to Greece, as many had emigrated there and really did find it to be the land of opportunity. They were able to start their own businesses and become successful. That is still true in a America, which makes it a unique place to live. Often we forget what a really good place the US is until we travel abroad. At home  we never worry about clean drinking water, or basic needs like that, and we forget that most of the world's population does have these concerns. I suppose I could philosophize about this for a long time, but I really just wanted  to say that I have often taken for granted how easy and nice it is to get a pedicure in Portland! Does that make me sound shallow? Yes, I suppose I am.

I don't know how I got on this subject, but I'll try to make a long story short. I had been wanting to get a pedicure for a week or so, as a little treat, but had no luck finding a place to do it anywhere we were staying. I saw lots of hair salons , and even got a very nice haircut in Ragusa, thanks to the help I got from Bettina. I even had Jim take a photo, because I knew it would never look like that again.

At the salon, I was surprised to see a friend  sitting at the shampoo bowl next to me- it was Bettina's sister who I had met twice before! It was a very pleasant experience, all in all. 

But I digress...

When we drove in to Camucia , near Cortona where we were staying at an Agriturismo hotel, I spotted a nail salon, so decided to drop in the next morning. I didn't even mind if I had to wait a while. When I went in to ask about a pedicure appointment, she said my next option would be in 4 days! I didn't think I'd be able to wait that long. So later that morning we were in Cortona and I saw a place called Estetica, which looked like a nail salon. She said no appointments available, but then thought she could fit me in at 5. We came back then, and I  proceeded to have my pedicure, when she nicked my big toe. Ow! During this time she took no fewer than 4 phone calls, all the while pouring some solutions over my toe to stop the bleeding, none of which helped. 

I am no fan of seeing my own blood, so had to focus on a sketch to take my mind off of it.

She even poured something that looked like betadine on my toe, then uttered "Madonna !"several  times, as we might say " oh my god". This was reassuring. 

When it came time to apply the polish, I finally had to laugh, as the color I chose was exactly the color of my bleeding toe! I tried to make a little joke in Italian,  saying " tutto e sangre" ! I paid €25 for the worst pedicure of my life, and was never so glad to leave! When I came out onto the piazza, I was lucky to snap this photo of some old guys that hang around there, plus one stranger...

I told Jim that I think I should move to Italy and open a chain of nail salons with Vietnamese pedicurists, who are fast, efficient and have never cut my toes. And Jim can sell microbrews.

Well, that was a short story made longer, but I guess I felt the need to share my experience. 

Cortona in all other ways was very nice. It is a little jewel of a town, and quite popular with the tourists. It is featured in the book Under The Tuscan Sun, so has gained a lot of attention, 

It is a classic Tuscan hill town, so the road to the top is long and winding. 

At every turn there is a beautiful view.

The main piazza is charming and intimate. The last time we were here I remember that someone had parked a very expensive Italian sports car here, and it was gathering quite a crowd! 

Just behind the square we were lucky to discover a wonderful art show by an artist named Sara Lovari that we both enjoyed. 

Lots of clever pieces that blurred the lines between art and reality, like this paper shirt.

And this tiny shirt in a box. We wanted to visit her atelier, but there just wasn't time.

earlier in the day I was hoping to find a simple place for lunch that was beyond the tourist trail, and we found the perfect place! It was like eating in someone's home, and you chose from what was on the stove. 

This was the quintessential Italian pasta- simple but perfect. 

This was a photo of the owners with an Italian race car driver. 

In a small alley

And there are lots of stunning views across the hills.

But this was my favorite view of all.