Wednesday, May 6, 2015

Napoli



Naples was another new experience for us, though we have driven through there on a couple of occasions. Many of our fellow passengers were talking about shore excursions they were going on, like visiting Sorrento or Pompeii, which all sounded mildly enticing, but we have been to most of those places on previous trips and sort of wanted to just wander around Naples. It was a good choice, as it turned out.
This was our first view of Naples, which I think is a pretty unique juxtaposition of architectural styles! 
We needed more of a plan for seeing the city, as per Cynthia's rules of travel: you have to have a plan. It doesn't have to be a great plan, but any plan is better than no plan. 
We started out asking if there was a Sunday market, and the young Italian woman at the info desk spoke so passionately about one in particular that we decided we had to see it. It always amazes me how much Italian Jim really comprehends- I can grasp the big picture, but he understands the nuances of a conversation. We finally found a bus going in the general direction, but saw another market on the way , so we hopped off the bus to wander through that area.
Tiny tiny clams

Lovely plump mussels
The freshest seafood imaginable. As I was taking a photo, a guy popped out and said " one euro for photo!" I probably would have paid it , but another guy said , no! 
After seeing so many gambero rosso, I finally had to try them! Later.
Of course there was wonderful looking fruit and veg. 
Zucchini blossoms
Teeny artichokes
This guy charged us nearly a euro for two blood oranges, but boy were they tasty! 
Back on the tram to the next market, that was strictly clothes and shoes, shoes, shoes! It was huge!
We were warned by some men in the train to keep an eye on our belongings as Naples is notorious for pick pockets. I love the way they pull down their eye to pantomime that concept. 
These are tiny kid size- where are the adult sized ones? 
Very stylish men's models. Jim didn't quite think he could pull this look off..

We got weary of walking through row after row of shoes, clothes, etc, but this is definitely a fun place to browse and people watch. I didn't leave without buying a pair of fake Birkenstocks for only 8€! 
This is definitely the place to come for inexpensive shoes, and if I lived here I would surely buy some stylish leather boots for 30€.
Afterall that shopping we needed a rest stop, which we found around the corner.
These tiny strawberries are only about the size of the tip of my finger, and make a tempting mouthful.

Italians love sweets in the morning with their cafe.
I was quite charmed by the chocolate heart that the barista made in my cappuccino! We were fortified to take on a bit more of Naples, which I would describe as " downscale and gritty". This is also a term that Michael Powell ( of Powell's books)used to describe my neighborhood! 
It seemed to be the custom there that people throw their trash on the ground, and wait for the sweeper to sweep it into the gutters. I kept my eyes peeled for what I call " ephemera", or interesting bits of paper, but all I found was, well, trash. 
At least some of the streets were interesting to look at, made from huge slabs(1-2' across) of lava stone. 
The buildings are wonderful, too, so I didn't forget to look up.
This was our third market of the day, which I called " knockoff alley".
Booth after booth of knockoff bags, shoes, etc. 
And along came the lemon granita seller with his cute cart. Of course I had to try it.
Jim graciously holds it for me. Doesn't he just look like an Italian in that Hawaiian shirt? I said we both looked like we just got off the boat from Hawaii..
We had to try a panini from this place for lunch.

Delicious! 
On our way to the metro, some pickpockets tried their magic with Jim( I don't know how they pegged us as tourists!). But he quickly realized what they were up to and swatted them away. Whew! 
We went to a different part of tow to find the Villa Floridiana, a green spot on the map. It was a great neighborhood full of upperclass Italians on their Sunday walkabouts. 
She was quite entranced by the balloon maker.
But dad and grandpa were too busy with their phones to notice...
We found a great neighborhood pizzeria and enjoyed watching them turn out pizza after delicious pizza. 
And gnocchi .
Then we took the old funicular back near our ship, grabbed a last gelato and enjoyed a soak in the hot tub after a long day of walking the streets of Naples

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